Colonia del Sacramento was our entry point into Uruguay and the first of the colonial cities in South America we visited during our journey through the continent. After spending a week in the lively, sometimes chaotic, Buenos Aires, we arrived at a place of calm and tranquility. Awaiting us was a historical center designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site, cobblestone streets with hardly any cars, more art galleries and ateliers than we could have imagined, and a history that continued to surprise us with each step.
At that time, despite its UNESCO status, Colonia del Sacramento was not overly crowded with tourists. We encountered a few as we explored its historic quarter during those early days of April, but what we remember most vividly was the peace that enveloped the town—the leisurely pace, the streets populated mainly by locals, and a timeless charm that seemed to slow down the rhythm of life.
A Former Portuguese Colony in Uruguay: The History of Colonia del Sacramento
The tranquility that characterizes Colonia del Sacramento today has not always been a part of its history. Founded in 1680 by Manuel de Lobo, a Portuguese military officer, the settlement known as Nova Colonia do Santíssimo Sacramento has exchanged hands countless times, through both military force and diplomatic treaties.
Did you know that Colonia del Sacramento was the first European settlement in what is now Uruguay? Although the region was considered part of the Spanish empire, Portuguese Prince Pedro wanted to establish a city in the neighboring country’s territory, aiming to exploit the opportunities for trade and smuggling with Buenos Aires, just across the Río de la Plata.
From its very foundation, the colony became a target for the Spanish authorities in Buenos Aires, who attempted to conquer it numerous times. They succeeded on several occasions, but for one reason or another, the settlement would always return to Portuguese control. Amidst this back-and-forth struggle, Colonia del Sacramento was even an independent colony for a decade, from 1705 to 1715, and at one point, it fell under British rule.
In Portuguese hands, Colonia del Sacramento was a hub for the slave trade and smuggling. Much like the pirate-ruled islands in the Caribbean, its inhabitants were not always the most upstanding citizens. In stark contrast to the tranquility of today, the city’s past was turbulent, driven by commerce and international disputes.
Tourism in Colonia del Sacramento: What to See and Do
Today, Colonia del Sacramento is best known for its beautifully preserved historic center, a unique blend of Portuguese and Spanish colonial architecture. Its beaches have also become popular among visitors, although they are a relatively recent attraction compared to the centuries-old town. However, up until the 1970s, the historic center was an abandoned area with a reputation far worse than during its days of smuggling and the slave trade. It was a place no one dared visit at night, and even during the day, few ventured through its ruins, which were largely neglected and deemed worthless.
Now, thanks to careful restoration efforts, Colonia del Sacramento’s historic district is a testament to its colonial past, with cobblestone streets, colonial houses, and the remnants of its fortifications all contributing to its charm. But while much of what you see today has been restored or even reconstructed, the beauty of Colonia del Sacramento lies not only in the age of its buildings but also in the care with which it has been preserved.
The City Wall and the Gate to the Citadel: The Entrance to the Historic Quarter
The city wall and the gate to the citadel, known as the “Puerta de la Ciudadela” or “Puerta del Campo,” were both reconstructed as part of the restoration of the historic center. The original city gate dates back to 1745, but by 1968, when restoration efforts began, much of it had crumbled. However, some of the original stones were found and incorporated into the reconstruction, giving it an authentic feel. Today, as you walk through this iconic entrance, you can imagine the centuries of history that have passed through its gates.
Calle de los Suspiros: The Most Photographed Street in Colonia del Sacramento
Once you pass through the city gate and continue along Henriquez de la Peña Street, you’ll come across the Calle de los Suspiros, or the Street of Sighs, a narrow alleyway that is without a doubt the most iconic street in Colonia del Sacramento. The vibrant colors of the houses lining the street, the wedge-shaped stones paving the road, and the prohibition of cars from disturbing its charm all contribute to its timeless beauty. The Calle de los Suspiros is as well-preserved today as it was when Colonia del Sacramento was founded, and it continues to serve as the setting for many period films.
Did you know that the street’s original name was Calle Ansina? No one knows exactly when or why it changed to Calle de los Suspiros, but there are several legends surrounding its new name. One tale suggests that condemned prisoners sighed as they walked down the street on their way to execution, while another recalls the many brothels that lined the street, where sailors would sigh at the promises of pleasure waiting for them after months at sea.
Exploring the Historic Quarter
Beyond the Calle de los Suspiros, the entire historic quarter of Colonia del Sacramento is worth exploring. The area within the city’s walls is a treasure trove of colonial architecture, cobblestone streets, and ruins—such as the ruins of the Governor’s House—that give a glimpse into the city’s past. Artists’ workshops and galleries are scattered throughout the quarter, offering visitors a chance to see inside some of the historic buildings.
As you wander through the streets, you’ll come across vintage cars that have been turned into works of art. These old relics add a touch of Havana to Colonia del Sacramento, with many of them serving as gardens on wheels or simply as decorative pieces. Art is not confined to the galleries in this city—you’ll also find graffiti on some of the walls, further adding to Colonia del Sacramento’s artistic and bohemian atmosphere.
The Basilica of the Most Holy Sacrament: The Oldest Church in Uruguay
Walking along Portugal Street, you’ll eventually reach the Basilica del Santísimo Sacramento. Although the building standing today is a 19th-century construction, it was built on the site of a much older church, which dates back to the very year Colonia del Sacramento was founded. While it may not stand out among the many opulent churches of South America, its historical significance as the oldest church in Uruguay makes it worth a visit.
Climbing the Lighthouse of Colonia del Sacramento: Views Over the Río de la Plata
If you’re looking for panoramic views of the city, head to the lighthouse. A climb of 118 steps will take you to a viewing platform where you can take in the historic quarter from above, as well as the ruins of the San Francisco Convent, which dates back to between 1696 and 1704. The lighthouse itself, built in the mid-19th century, is still in operation today.
From the top, you’ll also be able to see the mouth of the Río de la Plata and, on a clear day, the skyline of Buenos Aires across the river. The brownish color of the Río de la Plata may surprise you, but don’t worry—it’s not due to pollution. The river’s color comes from the sediment it picks up as it flows through the region.
Watching the Sunset by the Bastion of San Pedro: A Must-See in Colonia del Sacramento
Just a short walk from the lighthouse is the Bastión de San Pedro, where you can catch one of the most beautiful sunsets in Colonia del Sacramento. As the sun sets over the Río de la Plata, the sky and water turn golden, creating a perfect backdrop with the island of San Gabriel in the foreground. When we visited, we enjoyed the sunset almost entirely on our own, with only a few local fishermen nearby.
Another great spot to watch the sunset, which we didn’t try ourselves, is the pier, where boats gently sway on the golden waters as the sun sinks below the horizon.
Eating a Chivito: A Taste of Uruguayan Street Food
Although not specific to Colonia del Sacramento, you can’t leave Uruguay without trying a chivito. This iconic sandwich is packed with a combination of meat, fries, and just about every other ingredient you can think of. Start with mayonnaise, add a fried egg, cooked ham, cheese, bacon, peas, corn, and then some lettuce, tomato, and peppers. For the truly hungry, there’s also a plate version known as chivito al plato, where the sandwich fillings are served on a plate instead of between two pieces of bread.
Getting to Colonia del Sacramento: By Boat or Bus
There are two main ways to get to Colonia del Sacramento: by boat or by bus.
From Argentina, specifically from Buenos Aires, you can take a ferry across the Río de la Plata. Several ferry companies, including BuqueBus and Colonia Express, offer trips from the Argentine capital to Uruguay, with Colonia del Sacramento being the first stop. The fastest ferries take just one hour to make the crossing.
Alternatively, you can reach Colonia del Sacramento by bus from Montevideo, which takes about two and a half hours. There are also direct bus routes connecting Colonia with other major cities in Uruguay.
Where to Stay in Colonia del Sacramento: Hotels, Hostels, and More
With the rise in tourism, Colonia del Sacramento now offers a wide range of accommodation options, from budget-friendly hostels housed in colonial mansions to luxury hotels like the Radisson Colonia del Sacramento Hotel, located just steps away from the historic quarter. For those looking to stay near the beaches to the north of the city, larger hotels and beach resorts are also available.
Conclusion: Why You Should Visit Colonia del Sacramento
Colonia del Sacramento’s rich history and beautifully preserved architecture make it a must-visit destination in Uruguay. Whether you’re exploring its cobblestone streets, admiring the sunset by the Río de la Plata, or climbing to the top of the lighthouse for panoramic views, Colonia del Sacramento offers a tranquil escape from the hustle and bustle of modern life.
If you’re looking for a city steeped in history, culture, and natural beauty, Colonia del Sacramento should be at the top of your list.